Casa Tomás in Las Caletas: the day's fish, with your feet almost in the water

Las Caletas is one of those places you drive through without noticing: a handful of white houses on the coast between Arrecife and Costa Teguise. When people do stop, it is usually for Casa Tomás.

It is a family restaurant, Canarian to the bone, and its best asset is not on the plate but beside it: a terrace over the sea with a few tables set so close to the water that at high tide it feels like eating on a boat. Inside there is a large Canarian-style dining room with windows onto the ocean, for windy days.

What to order

Fresh fish from the grill — whatever came in that morning — and the rice dishes, paella and seafood rice, which are why many people come back. To start: papas arrugadas with mojo, squid, octopus, boquerones, seafood salpicón. Almost everything can be ordered as a tapa or a ración, and the first is the way to go: order a little at a time and share from the middle of the table, as locals do.

Good to know

Calle El Bambilote 2, Las Caletas (Teguise). From Costa Teguise you can walk along the coast past Playa El Ancla. Terrace tables are few: on sunny days arrive early or call ahead on 928 591 046.